「赤猿」牛仔褲設計大師馬田一嗎先生

Interview with Mr. Martin Ksohoh – founder & chief designer of RMC MARTIN KSOHOH

RMC MARTIN KSOHOH是一個源於香港的服裝品牌,成立於2002年。由馬田一鳴先生主理,其產品特色是牛仔褲配戴精美的刺繡技術。RMC MARTIN KSOHOH是首個取得官方授權的牛仔褲生產商。
”RMC Martin Ksohoh” is an original local brand in Hong Kong, founded in 2002. Directed by Martin Lee Yat Ming, the product design is based on the concept of exquisite embroidery stitching technique on denim garments. ”RMC Martin Ksohoh” is the first jeans manufacturers who obtain official authorization.

Introduction

Mr. Martin Ksohoh, founder of RMC, is a big fan of STARWAR. Our team and Mr. Martin Ksohoh have known each other since 2007, when we help Yoropiko with the promotion of STARWAR jeans. (For more information, please visit http://www.hk501/actions/YHS-index.html) This interview offers us an opportunity to know the stories of Martin and STARWAR.

前言

馬田一鳴先生除了是跳出香港打入歐美潮流界牛王RMC的主腦外,亦是一位超級玩具迷!本隊與馬田先生認識,可追朔至2007年,本隊協助Yoropiko品牌的星戰牛仔褲宣傳工作http://www.hk501st.com/hk501/actions/YHS-index.html 中知道馬田先生其實也是一名超級星戰迷後,終於促成今次訪問,了解一下這位在時裝界舉足輕重的人物與星戰的點與滴。

馬田 VS STARWARS

訪問地點在RMC香港的辦公室,馬田回想他第一次觀看的星球大戰是經典第一集 (Episode 4 - A New Hope),認為是整個系列中最成功的一集,亦為日後星球大戰成為經典科幻片鋪下了重要的第一步;談及EP4時,馬田認為以當年十分有限的技術,電影工作者以創作力及幻想,拍出電影中一幕幕真實及具創意的效果,這是十分難得,亦是他最欣賞EP4的原因,直言當年在觀看電影時,相信電影中的科技是真實存在;反觀前傳三部曲(EP1-3),他直言CG效果太好,沒有了當年的親切感,感覺只是一套效果很好的卡通片。

Martin VS STARWARS

Martin said the first STARWAR movie he saw was Episode 4-A New Hope (EP4) which he praised as the best of all STARWAR series. Without today’s advanced technology, the filmmakers who have a powerful creativity and imagination managed to make the awesome movie that surprised us with vivid and innovative visual effects. Martin said he believed the fancy technology was real when he saw the EP4 for the first time. Martin said EP1-3 are no more than cartoons when compared to EP4, because their CG effects are too fancy

馬田認為魯卡斯系列的科幻片重點是特技而不是故事性,而他最印象深刻的一幕就是EP6在Jabba官殿中,充滿著各種形形色色的小角色及性感的公主(Slave Leia);馬田喜愛星戰的另一個原因,是星戰故事中有著千變萬化的角色,大小角色都充滿不同個性,除豐富故事情節之外,亦對劇情的推展有重要的幫助;尤其是非人類的角色最為有趣,比較當年元祖第一代的科幻電視劇集,由故事性、 配樂、背影及分鏡等視覺效果,星球大戰都表現得更真實及出色。

Martin said Lucas series mainly focused on special effects, and the most impressive scene was that the small roles and sexy princess, Slave Leia, of EP6. The various roles and their multiple characters are another reason why Martin love STARWAR series. He thinks the non-human characters are most interesting. Compared to the first-generation sci-fi movies, STARWAR series are more successful in terms of plot, background music etc

在眾多角色之中,馬田直言沒有一個是特別喜歡,但以C-3PO給他的印象最深刻,他覺得C-3PO的外形與電影大都會(Metropolis)中的金色機械人十分相似,面部上雖沒有表情,但帶出十分強烈的個人性格,行動時很笨拙,但做事有原則及邏輯,有鮮明的個人立場,與其他EP4中眾多殘舊機械人對比,C-3PO顯得更富有智能機械人的真實性及人性的一面。

Martin said he had no favorite character in STARWAR movies. However, he said the most impressive character is C-3PO who he thinks resemble the golden robot of Metropolis. He said C-3PO was principled and had strong personality. Compared to other old robots in STARWAR movies, C-3PO is acting more like human

Martin VS Yoropiko星戰牛王

話題轉到星戰牛仔褲時,馬田憶述當年是美國魯卡斯影業指名找他當牛仔褲的設計師,驚喜過後,充滿挑戰的工作隨即展開,例如有很多官方要求要遵守,包括必須使用官方提供的圖案,不可加入個人風格等等。

Martin VS Yoropiko

Martin recalled that he was directly nominated by Lucasfilm as the designer for STARWAR jeans. Martin was happy to take up the job, but at the same time he had to abide by many official requirements of the company, for example, he had to use the designated patterns and was not allowed to apply his personal design style.  

 

後幅
MARTIN 圖案
Yoropiko 皮後牌

話雖如此,馬田郤認為最有趣的地方,就是在有限制的條件下做出最完美的產品,這樣才有挑戰性!在設計的時候,他為了保持角色神髓及帶出星球大戰主題,對產品作出了多番修改,例如將顯示整個白兵圖案改為半個,把圖案放在褲的旁邊突顯出來;為了使圖案更具立體感,他把牛仔褲的各部份的比例重新編定,取得平衡之餘,再加縫了數條不同顏色的車線及配上金色褲鈕,令整體效果粗中帶細,恰到好處的顏色配襯加上細緻設計,再配上星球大戰角色立體圖案及上乘牛仔料的質感,這就是馬田在設計完成後的一個簡單總結。 Despite the restrictions, Martin thinks that it is exciting to work out something best when having to meet the requirements. He revised his design many times so as to reflect the spirits of the characters and the theme of STARWAR. For example, he used half of the pattern of stromtrooper only and displayed it on the sides of the jeans. He adjusted the proportion of each part of the jeans and stitched several lines of different colors.

左後袋白兵圖案及Yoropiko字
右後袋帝國圖案及STARWARS字
左前袋TROOPER字
右喑袋及MARTIN 圖案袋釘

當被問到當年的星戰牛仔褲是否他理想中的設計,他直言在沒有設計限制的情況下他會設計出一條更有創意的牛仔褲,例如在牛仔褲後面兩個褲袋位畫一幅星球大戰大海報,橫跨整個背面,並把所有角色都濃縮在畫內,概念有點像中國名畫清明上河圖。 Martin said he would have made a more innovative STARWAR jean without the constraints from the said company. For example, he wanted to put a STARWAR poster on the rear pockets of the jean, which would show all characters in STARWAR movies, resembling the Riverside Scene on Pure Brightness (清明上河圖), China’s most famous painting.

內幅LOGO
印花金色扣鈕,刻有(馬田 DENIM YOROPIKO)
內幅STARWARS LOGO
褲?
金屬鈕扣,全部可折出更換
內袋白兵印花布
右大脾白兵圖案
左大脾白兵圖案(不是鏡射右大脾白兵圖案)

當被問到會否再生產白兵牛仔褲時,馬田指出他不喜歡重覆使用同一個設計,所以白兵作為圖案的星戰牛仔褲也不會再生產,但他絕對歡迎官方再聯絡他設計另一款的牛仔褲,他對此亦充滿了期待。
We asked Martin whether he would produce stromtrooper jeans again, he said he would not like to use the same design again but he would be very happy to design another version of STARWAR jean if Lucasfilm wants him to do so again.

 

馬田 與 珍貴收藏

馬田帶我們參觀他辦公室內的部份收藏, 很多玩具是收藏多年的經典款式, 其中包括他十分喜愛收藏的1:1 Stormtrooper白兵盔甲及渣渣兵!

Martin and His Collections

Martin showed us some of his collections which includes classical toys and his favorites, the 1:1 Stormtrooper armor and JAR JAR BINKS!

Hottys Interview 2011

 

後記

訪問即將完結時,本隊打趣的問馬田可否為香港501st生產隊員獨家產品,他表示十分樂意提供協助,但前提是版權問題及生產成本,希望日後本隊有機會跟馬田先生合作製作獨家產品 

Postscript

At the conclusion of the interview, we asked Martin jokingly if he would like to design exclusive products for our team. He said he would be happy to help us, but we should take the issues of copyrights and cost into account. 

 

HK501ST 牛王構想原形方案一 
HK501ST 牛王構想原形方案二

本隊十分感謝馬田一鳴先生在百忙中抽空跟我們會談,雖然內容天馬行空,但全部都是馬田先生用心的分享,我們充分感受到他對設計的執著及產品必須要創新的意念。最後,為答謝馬田先生接受我們訪問及過往的活動邀請,本隊送上香港501st成立五週年紀念T-shirt作為禮物,期望日後有再一次合作的機會。 We can actually feel his enthusiasm for innovation and design. We much appreciate Martin for sharing with us some of his story and give him a T-shirt of the 5th Anniversary of hk501st as gift. We are looking forward to another cooperation with Martin.

記者: Black Jack, Joseph, Mankam
撰文: Joseph, Mankam
攝影: Joseph


Reporter by: Black Jack, Joseph, Mankam
Written by: Joseph, Mankam
Photography by: Joseph